More details about the upcoming MOD2

One of the features we have worked on in the upcoming MOD2 is the ability to add different model Gameboys.  Here in this animation you can see the orginal DMG-01, the MGB and the GBC.  This was both a technical challenge and a physical one.  The technical part was to try and accommodate different voltages for the various Gameboys.  We are still working and stress testing a few of the different models to make sure they will be able to handle the abuse.  The physical part is adding the DB9 connector so it functions in the same manner as the original DMG-01.  We have had to augment the bottoms to allow the use and access for the connector.  We are still working on the best method to do this.  We might have several revisions before we are confident on the most durable way to proceed.  If you have any suggestions or ideas, please leave a comment.

If you are wondering why we are going through the trouble of adding more models, the easiest way to explain it would be: it would depend on what you are using which model to do what with.  Each model has its strengths and weakness’.  For instance, if you would like a little less mid-range and more gritty lows, than the Pocket(MGB) is great for this.  If you want stable performance while performing extreme pitch mods than the Color is the best choice.  There are audio quality differences between models too.

Next post I will talk about the clock side of MOD2 as well as the DB9 cable change/add we did before we shipped your Synthboy+’s.  See ya next post.

 

On to final assembly and testing!

Last week was very productive.  This week we are focused on assembly and testing.  We will start emailing you directly to confirm shipping address and give you an estimate date of delivery.  Look for more updates the closer we get as I will want everyone to keep watch for their Synthboy+.
Thank you again to everyone for all of your support.

PCB’s have arrived!


We received them Friday. We are excited to get moving forward on building SYNTHBOY+’s. Silver Circuits did a great job and I would recommend them to anybody who is interested in getting any board made. We will focus on cutting and shaping the boards this week. I would also like to start our rigourous testing too.

We made a few minor improvements to the code this week. We still are tweaking and testing. The code will be published right before we ship. Still working on the Gameboy Pocket model compatability. Excited to see these coming to life!

See ya soon.

Cases are nearly complete.

This week was spent focusing on screen-printing the graphics on the top enclosures. I was able to finish both the front print and the top print for all of the cases. I also built a jig that will allow me to cut the indents in the front for the two momentary switches. All of the clear polyester windows came out great!

T-shirt rewards will be sent out this week. I also start work on the back panel cut outs as well as screen-printing the graphics. Most important will be the finalization of the PCB design. We are very close and I’m happy with all of the changes and additions we have made. I will show a screen shot of the finalized board next week. Josh and I will be working hard on installing the backlight kits and I will work on the backlight kit DIY guide.

See ya next week.

Most components have arrived!

Cases were the big one I really wanted to get started on. We had a little time this last week, so I worked up a prototype idea of what MOD2 could be. I still have a few issues I have to work out, but I’m happy with those new low tones!

I was able to get all of the top enclosures cut. Josh was working on modding Gameboys. Ordered backlights and we hope ‘Apeshit’ from ASMretro can get those shipped fairly soon. (I just sent him the email yesterday. Waiting on those last few survey’s.) I hope to get started on ‘dropping’ in the clear polyester mass cast resin windows in the top enclosures, this week.

We still have a few survey’s that have not been returned. If I don’t see them this week, I will email those people directly.

We are working intensely on a final PCB revision. I keep adding stuff I want! I’m giving myself to the end of the month.

I hope you enjoy the sounds in this video. I use NeX’s GBLFO along with MOD1 and now MOD2 to create this sound. If you have any ideas or suggestions, please don’t hesitate to contact me directly.
Talk to you soon,

chrisATblarskyDOTcom

Survey’s sent!

Just sent out surveys.  Please ignore the word ‘kit’ for those who ordered colored Gameboy’s.  When creating the survey it had the tendency to auto populate fields.  Those who ordered kits, will receive kits and those who ordered the backlight colored Gameboy’s will have them installed.  Kickstarter suggests to not send the surveys until the product is ready to ship.  However this will not work for us as we need sizes and colors etc.

***IMPORTANT UPDATE***

MOD 1 WILL be installed.  If you wish to NOT have MOD 1 installed, please let me know!!!

If you move, it is YOUR responsibility to notify us of your new address.  If you have any questions or concerns, please contact me directly.

Thank you,

chrisATblarskyDOTcom

Build guide step #7

Build out of the boards is complete.  Josh did a fantastic job soldering all of the components in.  These look cool too!  Now it is on to testing.

We built a test rig to test these.

With them tested it is time to install them.

Made one modification to the back bracket.  Needed to notch out the aluminum to allow for for the larger cartridges that carry small button cell batteries inside them.

Next post we make slots in the bonnet to allow access to the cartridge slots.  Here is a start.

The Atari 2600’s are powered by synthcart. The Commodore 64’s are powered by Mssiah, cynthcart. The NES are powered by Chip Maestro, NTRQ, MidiNES. The Gameboys are powered by Arduinoboy/mGB, LSDJ, nanoloop.

Critical Update for build guide step #4!

NeX has brought it to my attention that I overlooked a possible short between +5V and ground.  Here is where the problem is. Back PCB.

The enlarged hole is located where the +5V trace is.  Here.

I needed to remove any chance of short by removing the copper left close to the hole.  I did this by manually moving a counter sink bit with my hand around the hole.  Here is the result.

With the protective Lexan overlays and the trimmed hole, this eliminates the possible short.  Thank you NeX for catching this gross oversight!

Build guide step #2

One quick note, we have moved the site to its domain proper, please make a note of it!  It is now located at Ninstrument.com.

Even heavily modified the front PCB of the Gameboy is too large to fit into our 2U case.  We have to take out about an eighth of an inch of aluminum to get it to fit comfortably.  I built a fixture to hold the face of the 2U unit flush to the CNC routing table.  I then used Corel Draw to line out the vector in which I planned to cut and used ArtCam to build the toolpath and then finally ran the gcode through Mach3 which operates the CNC router.  This took more time to set up then it did to actually cut out, but now that I have it done, I can repeat the same process efficiently.

I did the same process for the actual cutout as well.  I will have to keep tweaking the size of the cutout as I’m not completely happy with where everything sits quite yet.  I keep changing the design, so I hope I will get it nailed down pretty soon.  I might move the tabs in the middle around a bit.

I use them for mounting points for the polycarbonate front panel.  After a quick black enamel paint job the two are ready to go.

I can’t stress enough on how much time gets put into the hardware.  Josh and I spend hours testing, fixing and tweaking all of the components to find the best possible hardware to put into our units.  We listen to the sound output of every component and try to only use the lowest noise gear we have on hand.

Sometimes we need to de-solder components and replace them from other non-working boards to get them working again.  It is time consuming.  Once we have our components, it is now time to modify them.  Next post we will cover the very intricate cut of the front PCB and all of the details to get it running once the cut is made.

Here is a sneak peek.

The Atari 2600’s are powered by synthcart. The Commodore 64’s are powered by Mssiah, cynthcart. The NES are powered by Chip Maestro, NTRQ, MidiNES. The Gameboys are powered by Arduinoboy/mGB, LSDJ, nanoloop.